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Thank
you for selecting the finest American made engine available.
With simple care and common sense, your engine will provide
you years of trouble free service. This product does require
mechanical ability and know-how to operate. You must be the
judge of your own ability. You are the person who will control
your model and engine
in a safe manner and must assume all responsibility for your
activity.
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NOTICE!
Read this!
IT
IS NORMAL FOR THERE TO BE A TIGHT SPOT WHILE TURNING OVER
THE ENGINE. This
is explained further in this manual.
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THE
FOLLOWING WILL RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE
ENGINE WHICH WILL NOT BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY
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 RUNNING
THE ENGINE OUT OF THE WATER AT HIGH RPM's OR FOR EXTENDED
PERIOD OF TIME. When the engine is not in the water, there
is no load on the prop so the engine can over rev. This will
cause the connecting rod to break or stretch and break at
a later date. Since there is no load on the engine, it will
run at a higher RPM's will less fuel and in turn less oil,
this will not supply the rod bearing enough oil and will result
in breakage. Be careful. Only run your engine at low RPM's
while it is out of the water. Perform carburetor adjustments
after running your engine in the water. The only way to obtain
the correct carburetor settings is to have the correct load
on the prop.
IF
YOU FLIP YOUR BOAT OR CAUSE THE ENGINE TO INGEST WATER WHILE
IT IS RUNNING.
This will cause the connecting rod to break or stretch and
break at a later date. This is cause by the piston trying
to compress the ingested eater which will not compress in
turn placing the extreme loads on the connecting rod. This
condition can also be caused by fuel flooding the engine and
trying to spin it with an electric starter.
DO
NOT RUN YOUR ENGINE AT AN EXTREMELY RICH SETTING. An ABC
engine needs to cope up to temperature and running it at an
extremely rich setting for a period of time will cause premature
wear on the piston as well as the rod to stretch and break.
This is because the cylinder is too cold and the piston is
forced into the taper and sticks and is then pulled back down
with the connecting rod. The normal warm up period will not
hurt the engine but trying to run it very rich will because
of the accumulative effect of 15,000 RPM's or 15,000 sticks
and pulls of the rod per minute. The damage may not be apparent
initially but the rod may break in the future seemingly for
no apparent reason.
DO
NOT TRY TO BREAK YOUR ENGINE IN BY SPINNING IT WITH AN ELECTRIC
STARTER OR DRILL MOTOR. This is the worst thing to do!
You cause the same problems as running it too rich but even
worse. By doing this, the cylinder isn't even close to the
correct temperature and there is no combustion to help the
piston back down the stroke. So by doing this you are forcing
the piston into the taper and then pulling it back down with
the connecting rod. Connecting rods are designed to take force
in one direction only and doing this will cause the rod to
stretch and break as well as premature wear on the piston.
The damage may not be apparent initially by the rod may break
in the future seemingly for no apparent reason.
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THE
ABOVE IS TRUE WITH ALL ENGINES, NOT JUST K&B, SO BE AWARE
OF
WHAT YOU ARE DOING AND THE POSSIBLE CONSEQUENCES OF
NOT FOLLOWING THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
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WARNING
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PLEASE
READ ALL SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS! Failure to read, understand and follow
these instructions could result in personal injury and/or
property damage to yourself or others.
Do
not attempt to run your model before completely checking your
installation.
Engines
produce heat when running. Be careful as parts of the engine
may cause burns even after the engine is stopped prior to
cooling off.
Never
run your engine in an enclosed area. Engines produce dangerous
exhaust gases and must be run outdoors only.
In
case of difficulty, the safest and easiest way to stop the
engine is to pitch off the fuel line or remove it from the
carburetor. Never throw anything into the propeller (rags,
etc.) to stop the engine.
Never
clamp your engine in a vice to test run. Mount your engine
securely on your boat. Never use wood screws to mount your
engine. Use good quality machine screws and nuts.
Store
your fuel in a tightly sealed container (metal or suitable
plastic, NOT GLASS). Model fuel is poisonous and flammable.
Keep it away from heat, flames, and the reach of children.
Never
use propellers with nicks, scratches or cracks. Always use
the correct size propeller for your engine.
Keep
your hands a safe distance from the propeller at all times.
Keep
all loose articles (pencils, eyeglasses, etc.) out of shirt
pockets, as they may fall out while adjusting your engine.
Long hair, neckties, loose shirt sleeves and clothing, etc.
must be kept away from the prop.
YOUR
ENGINE IS NOT A TOY! It is a precision piece of machinery
and must be treated as such.
If
you are in doubt about anything, it is best to call our factory.
Asking your hobby dealer or an experience modeler for assistance
may be helpful, but may not provide the correct information.
Remember:
SAFE OPERATION OF YOUR MODEL AND ENGINE IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY.
Take
a few moments to familiarize yourself with the various parts
of the engine. DO NOT DISASSEMBLE YOUR ENGINE! Doing so will
void your warranty.
No exceptions!
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SPECIFICATIONS
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Displacement
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.454
Cu. In. (7.44cc)
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Bore
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.850
(21.6mm)
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Stroke
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.800
(20.3mm)
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R.P.M.
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2,200
- 25,000
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Power
Output
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3.0
H.P. @ 25,000
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Weight
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31
Oz. (.879 g)
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IMPORTANT
INFORMATION
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PLEASE
NOTE:
This engine is of "ABC" construction. That means,
it has an Aluminum piston fitted into a Brass, Chrome plated
cylinder.
ABC
type engines are intentionally manufactured with a "taper"
in the cylinder so you will feel a "binding" when
the piston is moving through the top of its stroke. You
may also detect what seems like a dead spot or disconnected
feeling of the crankshaft any you may even hear a clicking
sound when the piston is at this point.
These
feelings and sounds are the result of the taper (binding)
in the cylinder affecting the required clearances in the
connecting rod ends. All of these conditions are normal.
As
the ABC type engine obtains operating temperature, the cylinder
becomes straight and the clearances between the piston and
cylinder become correct. The straightening is due to the
top of the cylinder running at a high temperature than the
bottom, thus the top expands more.
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It
is also normal for compression to sometimes feel poor
when the engine is stopped and turned over while still
hot. This is due to the piston cooling faster than the
cylinder. If the engine temperature is allowed to stabilize
the compression will return to normal. |
RUNNING
THE ENGINE TOO RICH WILL RUIN THE FIT. If the operating
temperature is not reached, the piston is prematurely worn
from lack of clearance. You do not want to "break-in"
an ABC engine at a very rich setting. Just a slightly rich
setting for the first 30 to 45 minutes of running is adequate.
AIR
COOLED HEAD. This K&B engine is equipped with an
air-cooled head. This feature does not mean that the engine
can be run outside of the water for extended periods of
time since the lower unit does require water for cooling.
Also, the engine needs air moving over the head fins to
carry away the heat of combustion. CAUTION:
The air cooled head, muffler, and engine becomes
hot during and after running an can cause burns. Be careful.
For
your information, your engine has been factory set with
a head clearance between .015 to .018.
THE
LOWER UNIT. Tests have proven that the cable drive supplied
in your K&B engine is far more efficient and superior
to a gear drive. With a cable drive, maintenance of your
lower end is reduced to a minimum. Periodically check your
cable drive for fraying and excess wear.
Do
not turn your boat propeller or rotate your engine in a
counter clockwise direction as doing so might lead to the
cable fraying and unwinding. Again, regularly lube your
cable by using K&B Marine Grease (Part No. 8449 or equivalent).
See maintenance section
of this manual for information on this procedure.
MUFFLER
INSTALLATION. To install the muffler, slide the muffler
can through the cut out area in the lower unit, install
the gasket and then the screws in the matching holes on
the muffler. Tighten screws.
FLEX
SHAFT CARE. An access hole is provided in the PTO (Power
Take Off) plate on the lower unit for lubrication of the
flex shaft. We recommend that each time, before you run
the engine, you lube the cable with a mixture of 50% STP
and 50% 20-50 weight oil. In addition, we recommend that
you periodically remove, inspect, and re-lube the entire
flex cable with K&B Part No. 8449 shaft lube or equivalent
for maximum cable life.
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STARTING
AND BREAK-IN
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All K&B
engines are produced to the highest industry standards and
inspected before leaving the factory, but they are not "BROKEN-IN"
and will require approximately 60 minutes running before the
full potential of the engine is realized. BREAK-IN MUST BE
DONE WHILE ON THE BOAT RUNNING IN THE WATER.
A model
engine makes sounds that will tell you how it's performing.
You'll have to listen very carefully for them, recognize their
message, and make adjustments to the fuel control needle valves
accordingly. The mixture of fuel and air is controlled by
the amount of fuel metered by the needle valve.
SLIGHTLY
RICH MIXTURE running is characterized by a slower, sometimes
irregular, sputtering exhaust sound. The exhaust gas will
be smoky and probably contain small droplets of oil. This
condition is good for beak-in since the engine receives excess
lubrication and runs slightly cooler.
This is
the setting you normally look for before launching the boat
because the engine will run leaner when in the water.
SLOPPY
RICH or FOUR CYCLING is a very rich type setting, but
it is fast enough to push the boat. THIS SETTING SHOULD BE
AVOIDED WITH AN ABC TYPE ENGINE AS THE CORRECT OPERATING TEMPERATURE
MAY NOT BE ACHIEVED.
PEAKED
or TWO CYCLE. As the main needle is closed (clockwise),
it reduces the amount of fuel mixed with the air drawn into
the engine. At a specific point, which varies with each engine,
air temperature, altitude and relative humidity, the exhaust
note will change quickly into a smooth, powerful note. If
the needle is closed further, the note will stay smooth, but
will weaken. The peak occurs just at the break point from
a rich setting and further leaning will ruin the engine. A
lean setting raises the engine heat above the safe point,
reduces lubrication, and destroys glow plugs due to high combustion
temperature.
It is
important to recognize these settings as incorrect needle
valve settings are very harmful to the engine and your investment.
Learn to tune the engine. Remember, a slightly rich setting
is always preferred for long motor life.
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STARTING
PREPARATIONS
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GLOW PLUGS |
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Use
a Standard Long (K&B Part No. 7311- included/installed
in your engine) glow plug when using less than 25% nitro
or High Performance (K&B Part No. 7300) glow plug
when using more than 25% nitro. You also need a 1.5 volt
battery to operate the glow plug. |
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FUEL
SPECIFICATIONS |
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Use
a good commercial grade two cycle glow fuel (K&B 500
or K&B 1000) with 15%~25 nitro-methane (more nitro
helps in cold weather). |
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Break-in
Formula. 20% oil, 15% ntiro-methane, and the balance
methanol. |
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After
break-in: The nitro-methane percentage may be increased
to 25% or higher desired. Low quality fuels can ruin
the engine in a short period of time. Never use fuel
with less than 18% oil content by volume.
Be
sure the fuel contains the right percentage of oil (18-22%
by volume) and the fuel oil content is at least a 50-50
mix of castor oil. Not all synthetic oil. Use only fuel
that lists percentages on the label by volume.
Keep
fuel clean and filter it during fueling. Keep exposure
to air to a minimum as methanol will absorb moisture
rapidly.
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MARINE
PROPELLERS |
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A
Prather 230SS or 235SS (stainless steel) is recommended
as a starting size for this engine.
Be
sure prop is balanced. Vibrations are usually caused
by props and excessive wear or breakage of the prop
shaft may occur.
These
propellers as well as a prop balancer may be purchased
from your local hobby store or direct from K&B.
Use
of smaller propellers can cause vibrations and damage
to the engine. Too large a propeller can cause excessive
wear as the engine is lugged below its designed operating
R.P.M. range.
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PRESSURE
LINE HOOK UP |
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Muffler
pressure should be connected to the tank from the nipple
in the center of the muffler. |
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CARBURETOR
SETUP |
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K&B
engines are fitted with a variable mixture carburetor
which automatically alters both fuel and air mixtures
as it closed. Best and most reliable carburetor settings
are obtained after engine break-in.
The
carburetor enables easy adjustment of the idle speed,
idle, and high speed mixture.
1.
HIGH SPEED NEEDLE VALVE: Install the Remote Needle Valve
assembly. The bracket provided may be used if desired.
It is typically installed through the transom area.
The main needle assembly must be in the fuel line between
the tank and the carburetor. This line should not exceed
five (5) inches in total length. Either nipple on the
remote needle may be used for inlet or outlet.
2.
HIGH SPEED NEEDLE VALVE ADJUSTMENT: The needle, located
on the Remote Needle Valve assembly, controls all the
fuel supply to the engine at the maximum throttle setting.
It does not control the fuel at lower throttle settings.
As
a starting point for the High Speed Needle adjustment,
close the needle valve (clockwise) all the way closed,
DO NOT force it, then open it (counterclockwise) 3 to
4 turns. This setting is an average and will require
further adjustments.
3.
LOW SPEED and MID-RANGE ADJUSTMENT: The low speed rich/lean
adjustment is controlled by the brass disk located on
the side of the carburetor. Using an Allen wrench, turn
the disc clockwise to 'lean' the mixture and counter
clockwise to 'richen' the mixture. The rich/lean mixture
control is set at the factory and may require only a
fine adjustment for your application. Normally the maximum
adjustment range is only 5 degrees in either direction.
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ACTUAL
STARTING |
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WITHOUT
battery connected, open the carburetor barrel to wide
open position. Open the high speed needle valve as previously
described. Choke the engine by placing your finger over
the carburetor air inlet and slowly turn the flywheel
over three times clockwise. You should see fuel being
drawn up the fuel line. If fuel is not drawn into the
carburetor, open the main needle one more turn, and
be sure the idle mixture disc notch is in the upright
position, then repeat the above. Fuel should be drawn
into carburetor.
Close
the barrel to about the 1/3 open position and connect
the 1.5 volt battery to the glow plug, start the engine
with your electric starter. Once the engine starts,
open the carburetor to 1/2 throttle briefly and close
it back to 1/4 throttle. If the engine responds well,
launch the boat into the water. Running of the engine
outside the water must be kept to a minimum.
If
it slows, dies or only starts with a brief bust of power
and stops, the needle valve setting is too lean. Unscrew
the needle 1 ore turn and try again. If engine starts,
runs slowly and briefly, the mixture is too rich. Turn
the main needle in 1/2 turn and restart. IF THE ENGINE
DOES NOT FIRE AT ALL, refer to the troubleshooting section
in this text.
If
you launch the boat and the engine dies after only 10
to 20 feet, the engine is usually running too lean.
Now,
adjust the main needle as described in STARTING and
BREAK-IN above. ALL ADJUSTMENTS MUST BE DONE AFTER
RUNNING THE BOAT IN THE WATER. Adjusting without running
the boat in the water will not provide the correct settings.
The engine must have the load of the prop in the water
to obtain the correct settings.
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ADJUSTING
THE R/C CARBURETOR |
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1.
Start the engine, launch the boat and open the carburetor
to the full open position, then bring the boat to shore,
adjust the main needle, and re-launch the boat. Repeat
this until peak RPM is reached. Then, back out the main
needle slightly to keep the engine on the rich side
of the setting.
2.
Close the carburetor barrel slowly until the lowest
possible speed is reached without the engine stopping.
3.
Go to full throttle after about 10 seconds of idling.
If the engine gains speed slowly, the idle mixture is
too rich. If the engine stops, the idle mixture is too
lean. Turn the idle disc clockwise if mixture is too
rich and counterclockwise if too lean.
The
engine will accelerate from idle to full throttle smoothly
and instantaneously when properly adjusted. The engine
may not idle well at a low setting or accelerate as
quickly until it is broken in.
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BREAK-IN |
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1.
Break-in running should be done at a slightly rich setting.
The needle valve should be set a a point just into this
range from a four cycle setting. Run the boat in the
water at maximum throttle for 2 minutes, then throttle
back for approximately 30 seconds. Repeat this sequence
until approximately 45 minutes of accumulated running
time has been obtained. AVOID MAXIMUM THROTTLE FOR LONG
PERIODS OF TIME DURING BREAK-IN and AVOID RUNNING FOR
LESS THAN 5 MINUTE RUNS.
2.
After the first 30~45 minutes, run the engine at a normal
peak needle valve setting. This should be a little on
the rich side to ensure engine received proper lubrication.
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BOAT
INSTALLATION |
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The
engine must be mounted firmly to the transom of the
boat using the machine screws and plate supplied with
the engine. Never use wood screws to mount the engine.
Care
should be taken to the mounting position as recommended
by the boat manufacturer.
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TROUBLESHOOTING
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most engine starting problems can be traced to bad glow
plugs, weak starting batteries, or inadequate fuel systems. |
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GLOW
PLUGS
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The
glow plug when connected to a 1.5 volt battery should
glow a bright orange. If the plug slightly glows, the
battery or plug should be replaced.
If
the seal leaks around the center plug post, replace
it.
The
glow plug element should be examined after several flights.
If the element is deformed or touching the side of the
plug body, replace it. If the glow plug element is pitted,
or has a frosty look, the engine is running too lean
and continued running will seriously harm the engine.
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FUEL
SYSTEMS |
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The
most frequent problems encountered with fuel systems
are:
1.
Improper fuel tank location. The fuel tank should
be located as close to the engine as possible.
2.
Fuel pickup tank is not free or in the wrong location.
If the boat runs rich, then lean, then rich, the pickup
may be picking up air, then fuel, then air, as the thrust
of the engine causes the fuel to be forced from the
front of the tank to the back.
3.
Dirt or contaminates in the fuel, tank, lines, filter,
or carburetor. Many times a sliver of fuel line
or other debris will cause the needle orifices to become
plugged intermittently so a consistent mixture setting
cannot be obtained. Careful inspection and cleaning
of these passages will usually solve the problem. Don't
use silicone sealant on areas of the carburetor that
involve fuel passages.
4.
Holes in the fuel line. The tear resistance of
silicon tubing is very low and it's not uncommon to
develop a hole where the fuel line is assembled over
the edges of brass tubing. If the engine runs well on
the first half of tank and then quits, its almost always
caused by a hole in the pickup line inside the tank.
Look for bubbles in the fuel line while the engine is
running, this is a sign of holes somewhere in line.
5.
Pressure tap in muffler plugged or restricted. Some
fuels contain oil that can collect on the interior of
the muffler and plug off the pressure tap causing the
fuel tank to loose pressure and starve the engine for
fuel. This will cause the engine to run lean then rich
then lean. Try running the engine with the pressure
line removed from the muffler to see if the problem
still exists.
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MAINTENANCE
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| When
you are finished running for the day, run your engine
dry by removing the fuel line at a moderate speed or allow
the fuel tank to run dry. It is best to squirt some K&B
AFTER RUN OIL in the carburetor, then flip the propeller
about 10 to 20 times. This oil will keep castor based
fuels from gumming and protect internal engine parts from
rust and corrosion. When storing your model between running
sessions, it is best to warp your engine in a rag or plastic
to prevent dust, dirt, and moisture from entering the
engine. The engine should also be wrapped in a rag between
running sessions at the pond. |
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CHECK
TIGHTNESS OF ALL SCREWS |
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On
regular basis, you should check all screws associated
with the engine. Mounting, head, back cover, muffler,
prop, etc. These screws must be properly torqued and not
overtightened. Always use a cross torquing technique as
mentioned below. |
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BEARING
CARE |
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Your
engine operates in an aquatic environment and uses fuels
which attract moisture which will shorten the life of
the bearings if not cared for properly.
A
cleaning hole is provided in the front housing to aid
in cleaning the front (or top) bearing. Simply place
the spout tube of WD 40 (or similar product) up to the
hole in the housing and "back-flush" the bearing
until you see fresh lube coming out from under the flywheel.
The bearing may also be oiled with K&B After Run
Oil using this same procedure.
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FLEX
SHAFT CARE |
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An
access hole is provided in the lower unit for pre-operation
lubrication of the flex shaft. We recommend that each
time, before you run the engine, you lube the cable with
a mixture of 50% STP & 50% 20-50 weight oil. In addition,
we recommend that you periodically remove, inspect, and
re-lube the entire flex cable with K&B #8449 shaft
lube or equivalent for maximum cable life. |
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FUEL
& CLEANLINESS |
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Always
use fresh, clean fuel to prevent starting problems and
poor engine performance. We recommend that you use a
fuel filter in the line between the tank and the needle
valve assembly. A filter will prevent foreign material
from reaching the carburetor and causing a clog.
In
time, the fuel filter can itself clog, so we recommend
you remove the filter from the line from time to time
and to clean it.
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AFTER
RUN OIL |
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We
recommend the use of RJL or K&B after run oil (or
equivalent) after each days operation. After the engine
is run dry of fuel, squirt several drops in the glow plug
hole and several drops into the carb intake of the still
warm engine is sufficient. Briefly hit the flywheel with
your starter to distribute the oil evenly throughout the
engine. |
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ENGINE
CLEAN OUT |
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If
dirt or water does enter the engine, do not turn it
over until it has been flushed out completely. Alcohol
is recommended for this. DO NOT USE carburetor cleaner
or chlorinated industrial solvents as they may attach
the plastic parts of the engine. The following steps
may be used as a disassembly/assemble guide: (Read warranty)
1.
Remove carburetor and glow plug.
2. Remove the engine from lower unit.
3. Remove the PTO cover, muffler, and cylinder head.
4. Flush engine out completely using alcohol or mild
solvent.
5. Install PTO cover, muffler, and head. Insert screws
into head and tighten until they just touch the head.
Then tigthen them in cross pattern sequence. Tighten
the screws only slightly, repeating the sequence a number
of times until the screws are tight.
6. Remove the flex shaft and grease with K&B flex
shaft lube.
7. Attach the engine to the lower unit.
8. Install the glow plug and carburetor.
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©
Model Engine Corporation of America, All rights reserved.
K&B and the oval logo are Registered Trademarks of Model Engine
Corp. of America
Registered U.S. Patent Office
No
part may be reproduced without written permission from
MECOA/K&B -- P.O. Box 5 -- Sierra Madre, CA 91025 U.S.A.
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