WARNING

PLEASE READ ALL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS! Failure to read, understand and follow these instructions could result in personal injury and/or property damage to yourself or others.

Take a few moments to familiarize yourself with the various parts of the engine. DO NOT DISASSEMBLE YOUR ENGINE! Doing so will void your warranty. No exceptions!

ENGINE OPERATION TIPS

NEW CLEANING AND LUBRICATING FEATURES: K&B has added two new features to enhance operating condition and longevity.

A cleaning hole has been added to the front plate to aid in cleaning the front or top bearing. Simply place an aerosol can of Liquid Wrench non-flammable lubricant (or similar product) up to the hole and “back” flush the bearing. Continue to flush the bearing until you see fresh cleaner come out under the flywheel. The bearing may also be oiled in the same manner.

A lubricating hole for the flex shaft has been added to the lower unit. It is recommend that each time, before you run the unit, you lubricate the cable with a mixture of 50% STP and 50% 20-50 weight oil. K&B still recommends that you continue to remove, inspect and re-lube the flex cable (using Lube P/N 8449) on a continued basis.

MAINTENANCE: We recommend after each days running, that you check each bolt and screw for tightness.

CAUTION: For maximum life of propeller shaft bushing do not operate engine out of the water for a period of longer than thirty (30) to forty-five (45) seconds.

THE LOWER END: Tests have proven that the cable drive is far superior to the gear drive. Maintenance is cut down to a minimum. However, we ask that you occasionally check and lubricate the flex cable. Check for excess wear and fraying. Do not rotate the engine by flipping the propeller in a counter-clockwise direction. Fraying and unwinding may occur. We recommend a good silicone base lubricant such as K&B marine grease (P/N 8449) for your outboard as well as other drive units.

GLOW PLUG: This engine is designed to use the long reach glow plug (K&B P/N 7311).

FUEL: We recommend using K&B 525 (25% nitro) or K&B Speed Fuel 550 (50% nitro).

BREAK-IN: An “ABC” type engine, (Aluminum, Brass, Chrome) does not require prolonged break-in periods. However, we recommend that you run the engine at a slightly rich needle valve setting for the first two runs. These runs should be made with the engine installed on the boat and running in the water for periods of not less than five (5) minutes each. Typically, an engine will be ready for continuous full throttle and a leaner needle valve setting after ten (10) to fifteen (15) minutes of running.

CAUTION: If the engine is run at a lean needle valve setting during the break-in period, the following may result.

1. Piston and sleeve will overheat and score.
2. The connecting rod, crankshaft and wrist pin will overheat from lack of lubricant and seize, causing the lower con-rod bushing to spin in the con-rod, or in extreme cases, the bottom of the con-rod will break, causing damage to the crankcase, piston and sleeve.
3. The crankshaft may seize inside the front plate and fracture.

MOUNTING YOUR OUTBOARD: The outboard is mounted directly to the transom of your boat. If you are using an adjustable motor mount, the outboard mounts to the motor mount and it in turn mounts to the transom.

CARBURETOR OPERATION INSTRUCTIONS

Please note that the lower unit of your outboard engine has a pressure tap fitting. Although the use of pressure is not an absolute necessity, we highly recommend it as it makes for a smoother and more even run from a full to empty tank of fuel. You must connect a length of fuel tubing between the pressure fitting and the air vent tube on the tank.

NEEDLE VALVE ADJUSTMENT

Assemble the needle valve onto the carburetor and turn it clockwise to completely close it. Turn until it won’t go any further but do not force it. Then turn it counter-clockwise 4 to 4-1/2 turns, if you are running near sea level, 3-1/2 to 4 turns at higher altitudes. As these are only starting settings, you might have to re-adjust the needle vale to make it the correct setting for your area. Once you have arrived at a setting, you can lock the needle valve in place as the carburetor has a built in collet lock. Turn the block acorn nut clockwise to lock the needle valve in place, counter-clockwise to loosen. It takes a 1/4 inch wrench. Only tighten it enough so that the needle valve cannot be moved. Do not force it.

OTHER RECOMMENDATIONS

We recommend that you use a fuel filter in your fuel system. Install the fuel filter on the fuel pickup tubing between the tank and carburetor. It will keep foreign matter from going into the carburetor to create clogging. However, the filter also can clog up. Therefore, should it clog, remove the filter from the fuel line and clean it as per the manufacturer’s instructions. If you do not have a fuel filter in your system, there is a chance that foreign matter will find its way into the carburetor, causing your engine to run at a very lean setting, no matter how much you open the needle valve. The particles will wedge themselves in between the needle valve point and the fuel outlet tube (Spray Bar). The best way to remove them is by removing the complete needle valve, lock nut and all. Remove it by unscrewing the brass nut just next to the black lock acorn nut. This opens up the fuel chamber inside the carburetor, then blow into this chamber. This will clear out the spray bar.

Replace the assembly and snug up the brass nut. Check your fuel and pressure lines frequently for holes or cracks that could also cause the engine to run lean.

We realize that not everybody will run their outboard in saltwater. Those of you that will, however, should heed the following information.

It is a must to take a can of spray lube with you when saltwater racing. Before and after each run, spray all metal hardware on your boat, (this includes the engine), with spray lube. At the end of the day’s running, remove the glow plug and, by spinning the engine through with the starter, flush at least two ounces of fuel through the engine by holding your finger over the venturi.

Then, pour a good amount of spray lube oil into the venturi and spin the engine again for a short spurt. Flush the rest of the outboard and boat with lots of fresh water. Spray lube all moving parts, and threads on screws.

Propellers are naturally an important factor. Most propellers that are available on the market need balancing and “cleaning up”. Unbalanced props cause cracks on boat hulls, not to mention robbing your engine of horsepower and your boat of performance. So, balancing the prop is very important.

“Cleaning up” the propeller means to sharpen the leading edges of the blades and generally sanding, smoothing and polishing the entire prop.