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SPECIFICATIONS
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| Bore
& Stroke |
16.4 mm x 13.5 mm --- 0.646" x 0.531"
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| Displacement |
3
ccm --- .18 cu. in.
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| Weight |
engine
- 6.05 oz; muffler - 1.9 oz
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| Crankshaft
thread |
5
x .8 mm
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| Crankshaft
bearing |
double
ball bearing
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| Connecting
rod type |
super
alloy bronze bushing both ends
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| Piston/cylinder
type |
aluminum
piston, brass cylinder with hard plating
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| Carburetor |
single
needle with idle air bleed
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| Porting
type |
Schnuerle
ports with boost port
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| Glow
Plug |
K&B
1L Standard Long
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| Horsepower |
1.15
with tuned pipe & 30% nitro
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| Practical
RPM range |
2,500
~ 19,000
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| Max
RPM |
19,000
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| Prop
size |
8x6
- 9x5
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| Recommended
fuel |
5~15%
nitro (minimum 18% oil by volume)
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| Running
temp |
-
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| Warranty |
2
year limited warranty against defects.
See warranty for details.
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| Pull
starter |
not
available
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| Muffler/pipe |
standard
muffler
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PLEASE READ THESE
INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY TO FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF WITH THE FEATURES
AND OPERATION OF YOUR NEW K&B ENGINE.
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CAUTION
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| K&B engines will
constantly give you dependable performance and reliability
and will be a source of satisfaction and pleasure if you follow
these instructions as to the engine's proper care and tuning.
You are responsible
for the safe operation of your engine, so act sensibly and
with care at all times. This K&B model engine is not a
toy. It is a precision-built machine whose power is capable
of causing serious injury to yourself and others if abused,
misused, or if you fail to observe proper safety
precautions when using it.
Never use any other
fuel in your engine other than glow fuels specifically designed
for use in model car engines. NEVER use any other types of
fuel as these can cause severe damage to the engine, or personal
injury. NEVER use gasoline!
Never operate your
model on any public streets, parking lots, sports fields,
or sidewalks. This could cause traffic, accidents, personal
injury, or property damage.
Glow engines produce
exhaust gases that are poisonous and can be dangerous to your
health. It is important that you operate your engine outdoors
only.
Before starting
the engine, make sure the throttle arm is set to the
idle position. Starting the engine at any setting above idle
can cause the car to launch out of your hands.
When the engine
is running, there are parts that rotate at high speed. Be
careful not to touch the drive belts, gears, clutch assembly,
or any other moving part. Serious injury could result.
It is normal for
an engine to get very hot during operation, especially
the cylinder head and muffler or tuned pipe. Never touch the
engine or muffler assembly during or soon after running, they
could be very hot and can cause serious burns.
Model engines vibrate
when they are running. Periodically check all the engine screws,
mounting screws, muffler screws, and other assemblies to ensure
they are tight. Running the engine with loose screws
can lead to severe engine and/or chassis damage.
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INSTALLATION
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These engines are designed for beam type mounting. Securely
mount the engine an hardwood mounts or on the beam of a good
quality firewall mount. Be sure the mounting surface is flat
and parallel and all mounting holes line up. Take care to maintain
this parallel relationship in that the crankcase could become
distorted if screws or mounting is forced. We strongly advise
against using a soft or rubber mount installation. Even though
our engines are correctly balanced, these mounts can cause excessive
vibrations from resonance frequencies. Do not use a back cover
mounting plate as the engine backplate bosses are not designed
to withstand the torque of the engine. The fuel tank should
be located as close to the engine as possible. The center line
of the tank should be within 1/2 inch above or below the center
of the carburetor. Muffler pressure to the fuel tank must be
provided. |
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STARTING PREPARATIONS
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| Use
a LONG REACH PLUG (such as the K&B 7311) OR R/C IDLE BAR PLUG
(such as K&B 4520). Your will also need a 1.5 volt battery,
quality propeller (refer to prop chart below) and good, commercial
grade, two cycle glow fuel with 5% nitro-methane (more helps
in cold weather). Be sure the fuel contains the right percentage
of oil (18-20%) and that the oil is made up of a blend of castor
oil and synthetic oil (not all synthetic oil). Keep fuel clean
and filter it during fueling. Keep the exposure of your fuel
to the air at a minimum as methanol will absorb moisture rapidly.
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FUEL RECOMMENDATIONS & SPECIFICATIONS
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BREAK-IN
FORMULA: A mixture of 22% Degummed castor oil (or castor/
synthetic oil blend), 5% nitro-methane, and 73% methanol.
AFTER
BREAK-IN: The nitro-methane percentage may be increased
to 15% and oil content may be decreased if desired. However,
never use fuel with less than 18% total oil content.
NOTE:
In spite of certain fuel manufacturer's claims, always
be sure that your fuel contains at least some castor oil in
it's formulation. Even if as little as 12 to 15% of the the
total quantity of oil in your fuel consists of castor, that
small amount of castor oil will provide much needed protection
for your engine when it is being called upon to provide you
with its maximum output. As the manufacturer of this engine,
K&B specifies that some castor oil in your fuel is a necessary
and essential fuel component and is a requirement for maximum
protection of your engine during its life.
LOW
QUALITY FUELS OR FUELS WITH AN INADEQUATE OIL CONTENT CAN
RUIN YOUR ENGINE IN A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME.
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PROPELLER SIZES
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Service
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Recommended
Prop
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Break-in
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7x6
8x3 8x4
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Normal
use
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8x5
9x5
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STARTING & BREAK-IN
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All K&B
engines are produced to the highest standards and inspected
before leaving the factory, but they are not "BROKEN-IN" and
will require approximately 30~45 minutes running before the
full potential of the engine is realized. Break-in can be
achieved "on the bench" or in
the air.
Model
engines make sounds that will tell you how they are performing
or what they are doing. You'll have to listen very carefully
for these sounds, recognize their message, and make adjustments
to the fuel control needle valves accordingly. The mixture
of fuel and air is controlled by the amount of fuel metered
by the needle valve.
Running
"RICH" is a condition when the engine has a very slow, sometimes
irregular, sputtering and almost sloppy exhaust sound. The
exhaust will be very smoky, will probably contain small drops
of oil and even drops of raw fuel. RUNNING RICH IS NOT
GOOD FOR BREAK-IN of your K&B .18 Aero engine which is
an ABC type. The engine, at this speed, runs much cooler than
it should and is subject to premature wear.
"FOUR
CYCLE" is a still a rich setting. Though slow, it is fast
enough to properly heat the engine's components and will even
pull the airplane in flight. THE 4-CYCLE SPEED IS GOOD
FOR BREAK-IN. This is also the setting you normally look
for before launching the airplane because the engine will
run leaner when airborne.
PEAKED
OR "TWO CYCLE" - As the main needle is closed (clockwise),
it reduces the amount of fuel mixed with the air drawn into
the engine. At a specific point, which varies with each engine,
air temperature, altitude and relative humidity. At "two-cycle",
the exhaust note will change quickly into a smooth, powerful
note.
DON'T
OVERDO IT! - Once at a "two-cycle" if the needle is closed
further, the sound from the engine will stay smooth, but will
weaken. The peak power of your engine occurs just at the break
point from a rich "four cycle" setting and further, excessive
leaning will ruin the engine. A too-lean setting raises the
engine heat above the safe point, reduces lubrication, and
destroys glow plugs due to high combustion temperature. This
is very harmful to the engine and will shortly destroy your
investment.
Learn
to tune the engine before flying. Remember, "a little on the
rich side is always preferred for longer motor life".
NOTE:
The "high speed needle" is knurled knob and "idle mixture"
is adjusted by the screw in the center of the moving barrel.
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ACTUAL STARTING
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- Open
the carburetor barrel about halfway. Open the high speed
needle valve about 3~4 turns.
- Choke
the engine by placing your finger over the venturi and slowly
turn the prop over three times counter clockwise. You should
see fuel being drawn up the fuel line. If fuel is not drawn
into the carburetor, open the main needle two more turns,
unscrew the idle needle two turns and repeat the above.
- Connect
the 1.5 volt battery to the glow plug and pull the prop
through until you feel a bump before compression. Now the
engine will start with your chicken stick or electric starter.
- Once
the engine starts, open the carburetor to full throttle.
At this time the engine should be running very rich. Slowly
turn the main needle valve in and the engine should start
speeding up. If it slows, dies or only starts with a brief
bust of power and stops, the needle valve setting is too
lean. Unscrew the needle 1 more turn and try again. If engine
starts, runs slowly and briefly the mixture is too rich.
Turn needle in 1/2 turn and restart.
- IF
THE ENGINE DOES NOT FIRE AT ALL, refer to the TROUBLE
SHOOTING section in this text.
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ADJUSTING THE R/C CARBURETOR
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NOTE:
The high speed needle is knurled knob and idle mixture is
adjusted by the screw located in the center of the moving
barrel.
K&B engines
are fitted with a variable mixture carburetor which automatically
alters both fuel and air mixtures as it's closed. Best and
most reliable carburetor settings are obtained after engine
break-in.
- Start
the engine and open the carburetor to the full open position,
then adjust for peak R.P.M. with the main needle as previously
described.
- Close
the carburetor barrel slowly until the lowest possible speed
is reached without the engine stopping.
- Go
to full throttle after about 10 seconds of idling.
- If
the engine gains speed slowly, the idle mixture is too rich.
If the engine stops, the idle mixture is too lean. Turn
the idle needle clockwise if mixture is too rich and counterclockwise
if too lean.
The engine
will accelerate from idle to full throttle smoothly and instantaneously
when properly adjusted. The engine may not idle well at a
low setting or accelerate as quickly until it is well broken
in.
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BENCH BREAK-IN
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NOTE THAT
THE ENGINE MUST BE FIRMLY BOLTED INTO OR ONTO A SOLID TEST
STAND. DO NOT CLAMP ENGINE IN A VISE. The supplied muffler
should be used during bench break-in.
The initial
bench break-in period is also approximately 45 minutes (20
to 25 minutes bench and 30 minutes airborne). During this
time, use the recommended break-in propeller and run the engine
at a rich to slow "4 cycle" setting. It is best to run the
engine for about 10 minutes at a stretch and then allow it
to cool. This heating and cooling cycle aids in break-in.
- Start
the engine and run it at a rich full throttle for about
1-1/2 minutes, then let it fast idle (about 3500 rpm's)
for 30 seconds. Repeat this sequence for about 20 minutes
of running time.
- Increase
the full open throttle time to about 3 minutes followed
by a 30 second idling period. Do this for an additional
for 20 minutes.
- Install
the engine in your aircraft. Using an normal size prop,
proceed as described in the final step of the "AIRBORNE
BREAK-IN".
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AIRBORNE BREAK-IN
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Care should
be exercised when breaking in your engine using this method
since you do not have "hands on" direct control of the engine
should it run too lean too soon. Make certain that your radio
equipment has the ability to "throttle down" your engine if
needed.
- BREAK-IN
running should be done with the recommended propeller (see
chart above) at a slightly rich setting. The needle valve
should be set at a point just into this range from a four
cycle setting. Fly the plane at maximum throttle for 2 minutes,
then throttle back for approximately 30 seconds. Repeat
this sequence until approximately 30 minutes of accumulated
running time has been obtained. Additionally, certain maneuvers,
such as "CUBAN EIGHT'S", that allow the engine to load and
unload are recommended. AVOID PROLONGED MAXIMUM THROTTLE
CLIMBING MANEUVERS.
- After
the first 30 minutes change to normal size prop and fly
an additional 30 minutes. Continue to run the engine at
a slightly rich four cycle setting and fly your normal pattern.
- After
the above break-in period, run the engine at a normal peak
needle valve setting. This should be a little on the rich
side because engines run leaner in the air. 5% - 15% nitro
may be used.
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TROUBLESHOOTING
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| Generally
most engine starting problems can be traced to bad glow plugs,
weak starting batteries, or inadequate fuel systems. |
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GLOW PLUGS
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The glow
plug, when connected to a 1.5 volt battery, should glow a
bright orange.
- If
the plug only glows weakly (dull orange) the the starting
battery should be recharged or, if the battery is OK, replace
the plug.
- If
you see any leaks (bubbles) around the center post of your
glow plug, replace the plug.
- The
glow plug element should be examined after several flights.
If the element is deformed or touching the side of the plug
body, replace the plug.
- If
the glow plug element is pitted or has a frosty look, the
engine is running too lean and continued running will seriously
harm the engine.
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FUEL SYSTEMS
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The most
frequent problems encountered with fuel systems which could
cause engine running problems are:
- Improper
fuel tank location. The center line of the carburetor should
be located on the center line of the fuel tank.
- Fuel
pick up in tank is not free.
- Dirt
or contaminates in the fuel, tank, lines, filter or carburetor.
- Holes
in the fuel line. The tear resistance of silicon tubing
is very low and it's not uncommon to develop a hole where
the fuel line is assembled over the edges of brass tubing.
- If
the engine runs well on the first half of tank and then
quits, it's almost always caused by a hole in the pick up
line inside the tank. Look for bubbles in the fuel line,
this is also a sign of holes.
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MAINTENANCE
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When you
are finished flying for the day, run your engine dry by removing
the fuel line at a moderate speed or allow the fuel tank to
run dry. Squirt several drops of a good quality AFTER RUN
OIL in the carburetor, then flip the propeller about 10 to
20 times. This oil will spread into the internal parts of
the engine. Doing this religiously will keep castor based
fuels from gumming up in the engine. After run oil will also
protect internal engine parts from rust and corrosion. When
storing your model between flying sessions, it is best to
wrap your engine in a rag or plastic to prevent dust, dirt
and moisture from entering the engine. The engine should also
be wrapped in a rag at the flying field between flights.
Preventive
Maintenance Hint: For a smoother running, less troublesome
engine, check the tightness of all screws regularly.
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OPERATION IN DIRTY OR DUSTY ENVIRONMENT
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Dirt is
the enemy of the model airplane engine. Your K&B engine is
a precision piece or equipment with very close fitting metal
components. The engine should always be protected from dirt
or like foreign material. IF FOR ANY REASON DIRT ENTERS THE
ENGINE DO NOT TURN IT OVER UNTIL IT HAS BEEN FLUSHED OUT COMPLETELY.
Alcohol
is recommended for flushing. DO NOT USE carburetor cleaner
or chlorinated industrial solvents as they may attack the
plastic parts of the engine. The following steps may be used
as a limited disassembly and re-assembly guide: (See warranty
warning below about engine disassembly).
NOTE:
TAKE CARE NOT TO DISASSEMBLE THE ENGINE BEYOND THE INSTRUCTIONS
PROVIDED HERE. DOING SO WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY COVERAGE
- Remove
carburetor, muffler and glow plug.
- Remove
the back cover and cylinder head.
- Flush
engine out completely using alcohol or mild solvent.
- Reinstall
back cover and head according to the instruction below.
- Insert
screws into head and tighten until they just begin to become
tightened up. Then tighten the screws in the sequence shown
below. Tighten the screws only slightly, repeating the sequence
a number of times until the screws are tight
- Install
the glow plug and carburetor.
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WARRANTY
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All K&B
engines returned for warranty service must be within the warranty
terms as stated in this instruction sheet. Do not return the
engine to the place of purchase. They are not authorized or
equipped to perform warranty work on K&B products. When
requesting warranty service, please observe the following:
Call K&B
first to receive a returned goods authorization (RGA) number,
at 626-359-9527.
Always
send the complete engine including the carburetor.
Include a note
detailing the problem you are experiencing. Warranty service
cannot be provided without this information. Include
your daytime phone number, address, or e-mail address in the
event we need to contact you for more details pertaining
to the service you requested.
Tell us
where you purchased you engine and when. A clear copy of your
purchase receipt is required for you to receive a warranty
consideration.
After you
receive your RGA number and have prepared your written information,
send the engine to us at:
K&B
MODEL PRODUCTS, INC.
Attention: Warranty Department
1630 South California Avenue
Monrovia CA 91016
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NON-WARRANTY
SERVICE
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your engine is not eligible for warranty service and you wish
to have it repaired, please,
click here for repair service.
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©2004-1998
Model Engine Corporation of America, All rights reserved.
K&B and the oval logo are Registered Trademarks of Model Engine
Corp. of America
Registered U.S. Patent Office
No
part may be reproduced without written permission from
MECOA/K&B -- P.O. Box 98 -- Sierra Madre, CA 91025 U.S.A.
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