WARNING

PLEASE READ ALL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS! Failure to read, understand and follow these instructions could result in personal injury and/or property damage to yourself or others.

Take a few moments to familiarize yourself with the various parts of the engine. DO NOT DISASSEMBLE YOUR ENGINE! Doing so will void your warranty. No exceptions!

If you are unfamiliar with this line of carburetors or are a new modeler, please do not attempt to start the engine until you have read and understand the following instructions:

The carburetor enables easy adjustment of the idle speed, idle mixture and the high speed mixture.

1.    High Speed Needle Valve

2.    High Speed Needle Valve Adjustment

As a starting point for the High Speed Needle Adjustment, completely close the needle valve (clockwise), then open it (counterclockwise) three and a half turns. This setting is an average and may require further adjustments. For higher altitudes (3,000 - 4,000 feet), close the needle valve approximately 1/2 turn.

3.    Low Speed and Mid-Range Adjustment

GLOW PLUG: This engine is designed to use the Long Reach Glow Plug (K&B P/N 7311).

FUEL: We recommend using K&B 1000+, 25% nitro.

HEAD and SLEEVE SHIMS: The head clearance of your engine has been checked and set as close as possible to 15 thousandths of an inch. A shim may have been installed under the head to achieve this. Please replace them should you need to disassemble the engine for any reason.

REMEMBER: Check all bolts on engine and lower unit for tightness after each run.

THE LOWER END:
Tests have proven that the cable drive is far superior to the gear drive. Maintenance is cut down to a minimum. However, we ask that you occasionally check and lubricate the flex cable. Check for excess wear and fraying. Do not rotate the engine by flipping the propeller in a counter-clockwise direction. Fraying and unwinding may occur. We recommend a good silicone base lube such as K&B marine grease (P/N 8449) for your outboard as well as other drive units. Lubricate the shaft generously and often.

IMPORTANT NOTE

The prop shaft assembly and mating part of the lower end casting is threaded (Note: Left-hand Thread) for ease of removal or replacement of the drive cable or prop shaft assembly. Keep this assembly tight at all times.

NOISE REDUCTION: As an option, silicone tubing may be placed between the water outlet on the water jacket and the water fitting in the exhaust cavity to reduce noise levels. If further noise reduction is required, Muffler Plate (P/N 8770) may be added to the lower unit.

MARINE PROPELLERS: Propellers are naturally an important factor. Most propellers that are available on the market need balancing and “cleaning up”. Unbalanced props cause cracks on boat hulls, not to mention robbing your engine of horsepower and your boat of performance. So, balancing the prop is very important. You can buy a fixture for checking balance or you can make your own. Too make your own, mount two single edge razor blades, sharp edges up, parallel to each other and about 1-1/2 inches apart on a piece of aluminum “U” channel or make your own “U” channel out of wood. Make sure the sharp edges are level with each other and with the table. Slip a length of 3/16 diameter shafting (drill blanks are best) through the prop. Place the shaft across the razor blades with the prop in between. The heavy side of the prop will roll to the bottom. File on this area until the prop is balanced. Do not file on the concave part of the prop.

“Cleaning up” the propeller means to sharpen the leading edges of the blades and generally sanding, smoothing, and polishing the entire prop.