WARNING

PLEASE READ ALL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS! Failure to read, understand and follow these instructions could result in personal injury and/or property damage to yourself or others.

Take a few moments to familiarize yourself with the various parts of the engine. DO NOT DISASSEMBLE YOUR ENGINE! Doing so will void your warranty. No exceptions!

AIR COOLED HEAD: A feature of this engine is the air cooled head. This feature does not mean that the engine is to be run outside of water for prolonged periods of time as the lower unit does require water for cooling.

HYDRAULIC LOCK: Care must be taken to avoid hydraulic lock, this is trapped liquid in the cylinder that can not be compressed by the piston. This condition is possible by allowing excessive fuel to flow into the engine while it is not running or when the engine ingests water if your boat flips. Never bump the engine with an electric starter before checking for this condition by turning the engine through 3 revolutions by hand using the flywheel. BE SURE THE GLOW PLUG LEAD IS NOT ATTACHED. The fluid will drain out through the exhaust system.

CLEANING AND LUBRICATING FEATURES: K&B has added two new features to enhance operating condition and longevity.

A cleaning hole has been added to the front plate to aid in cleaning the front or top bearing. Simply place an aerosol can of Liquid Wrench non-flammable lubricant (or similar product) up to the hole and “back” flush the bearing. Continue to flush the bearing until you see fresh cleaner come out under the flywheel. The bearing may also be oiled in the same manner.

A lubricating hole for the flex shaft has been added to the lower unit. It is recommend that each time, before you run the unit, you lubricate the cable with a mixture of 50% STP and 50% 20-50 weight oil. K&B still recommends that you continue to remove, inspect and re-lube the flex cable (using K&B Lube P/N 8449) on a continued basis.

MAINTENANCE: We recommend after each days running, you run the engine dry by removing the fuel line while the engine is running at low speed. This burns out fuel residue that will cause internal corrosion and rust. After run oil is strongly recommended. It is also important that you always check each bolt and screw for tightness before and after a day of running.

CAUTION: For maximum life of propeller shaft bushing do not operate engine out of the water for a period of longer than thirty (30) to forty-five (45) seconds.

THE LOWER END: Tests have proven that the cable drive is far superior to the gear drive. Maintenance is cut down to a minimum. However, we ask that you occasionally check and lubricate the flex cable. Check for excess wear and fraying. Do not rotate the engine by flipping the propeller in a counter-clockwise direction. Fraying and unwinding may occur. We recommend a good silicone base lubricant such as K&B Lube P/N 8449 for your outboard as well as other drive units.

GLOW PLUG: This Engine is designed to use the long reach glow plug (K&B P/N 7311 or 7300).

FUEL: We recommend using K&B Fuel with 15 to 25% nitro. For competition nitro content may be increased to 50%.

HEAD CLEARANCE: Your engine has been factory set with a head clearance of approximately .010 to .015.

MUFFLER INSTALLATION: Two 4-40 x 1/4” screws are included within your accessory package for muffler installation. Simply slide the muffler through the cutout in the lower unit and install the screw through the muffler adaptor into the matching holes on the muffler. Tighten screws to 12 inch pounds.

MARINE PROPELLERS: Propellers are naturally an important factor. Most propellers that are available on the market need balancing and “cleaning up”. Unbalanced props cause cracks on boat hulls, premature wear on the propeller shaft and bushings and in extreme cases prop shaft breakage. Unbalanced props also rob your engine of horsepower and your boat of performance. So, balancing the prop is very important.

“Cleaning up” the propeller means to sharpen the leading edges of the blades and generally sanding, smoothing and polishing the entire prop as per prop manufacturers instructions.

MOUNTING YOUR OUTBOARD: The outboard is mounted directly to the transom of your boat. If you are using an adjustable motor mount, the outboard mounts to the motor mount and it in turn mounts to the transom.

CARBURETOR OPERATION

PRESSURE TAP: Please note that the muffler unit of your outboard engine has a pressure tap fitting. Although the use of pressure is not an absolute necessity, we highly recommend it as it makes for a smoother and more even run from a full to empty tank of fuel. You must connect a length of fuel tubing between the pressure fitting and the air vent tube on the tank.

NEEDLE VALVE ADJUSTMENT: Assemble the needle valve onto the carburetor and turn it clockwise to completely close it. Turn until it won’t go any further but do not force it. Then turn it counter-clockwise 6-1/2 turns, if you are running near sea level, 6 turns at higher altitudes. As these are only starting settings, you may have to re-adjust the needle valve to make it the correct setting for your area. Once you have arrived at a setting, you can lock the needle valve in place as the carburetor has a built in collet lock. Turn the black acorn nut clockwise to lock the needle valve in place, counter-clockwise to loosen. It takes a 1/4 inch wrench. Only tighten it enough so that the needle valve cannot be moved. Do not force it.

The engine runs in a clockwise rotation. Make certain that your starter motor is running in the same direction. With the tank full of fuel, radio on and glow plug battery leads off, fully open the carburetor, and with your finger covering the carburetor venturi, spin the engine with the starter for about a two second burst. This primes the engine. Now close the carburetor to the starting position. Connect the glow battery and spin the engine again. The engine should fire up and run. We recommend that you start your engine close to the water so that you will not have too far to walk with the engine running. It is also advised that you keep the engine at a slow or not greater than a slightly fast idle until you get into the water, as over revving plus overheating can damage your engine.

An “ABC” type engine, (Aluminum, Brass, Chrome) does not require prolonged break-in periods. However, we do recommend that you run the engine at a slightly rich needle valve setting for the first two runs. These runs should be made with the engine installed on the boat and running in the water for periods of not less than five (5) minutes each. Typically, an engine will be ready for continuous full throttle and a leaner needle valve setting after ten (10) to fifteen (15) minutes of running. Needle valve settings can only be determined while unit is in the water and prop has a load on it. Do not try to obtain correct mixture setting while unit is out of the water.

CAUTION: If the engine is run at a lean needle valve setting during the break-in period, the following may result.

1. Piston and sleeve will overheat and score.
2. The connecting rod, crankshaft and wrist pin will overheat from lack of lubricant and seize, causing the lower con-rod bushing to spin in the con-rod, or in extreme cases, the bottom of the con-rod will break, causing damage to the crankcase, piston and sleeve.
3. The crankshaft may seize inside the front plate and fracture.