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GLOW
PLUG: This engine is designed to use the Long Reach Glow
Plug (K&B P/N 7311).
FUEL:
We recommend using K&B 1000+, 25% nitro.
HEAD
and SLEEVE SHIMS: The head clearance of your engine has
been checked and set as close as possible to 18 thousandths
of an inch. A shim may have been installed under the head
to achieve this. Please replace them should you need to disassemble
the engine for any reason.
REMEMBER:
Check all bolts on engine and lower unit for tightness after
each run.
THE
LOWER END: Tests have proven that the cable drive is far
superior to the gear drive. Maintenance is cut down to a minimum.
However, we ask that you occasionally check and lubricate
the flex cable. Check for excess wear and fraying. Do not
rotate the engine by flipping the propeller in a counter-clockwise
direction. Fraying and unwinding may occur. We recommend a
good silicone base lube such as K&B marine grease (P/N
8449) for your outboard as well as other drive units. Lubricate
the shaft generously and often.
IMPORTANT
NOTE: The prop shaft assembly and mating part of
the lower end casting is threaded (Note: Left-hand Thread)
for ease of removal or replacement of the drive cable or prop
shaft assembly. Keep this assembly tight at all times.
NOISE
REDUCTION: As an option, silicone tubing may be placed
between the water outlet on the water jacket and the water
fitting in the exhaust cavity to reduce noise levels. If further
noise reduction is required, Muffler Plate (P/N 8770) may
be added to the lower unit.
MARINE
PROPELLERS
Propellers are naturally an important factor. Most propellers
that are available on the market need balancing and “cleaning
up”. Unbalanced props cause cracks on boat hulls, not
to mention robbing your engine of horsepower and your boat
of performance. So, balancing the prop is very important.
You can buy a fixture for checking balance or you can make
your own. Too make your own, mount two single edge razor blades,
sharp edges up, parallel to each other and about 1-1/2 inches
apart on a piece of aluminum “U” channel or make
your own “U” channel out of wood. Make sure the
sharp edges are level with each other and with the table.
Slip a length of 3/16 diameter shafting (drill blanks are
best) through the prop. Place the shaft across the razor blades
with the prop in between. The heavy side of the prop will
roll to the bottom. File on this area until the prop is balanced.
Do not file on the concave part of the prop.
“Cleaning
up” the propeller means to sharpen the leading edges
of the blades and generally sanding, smoothing, and polishing
the entire prop.
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